Saturday, December 14, 2013

Nyungwe Forest National Park, Rwanda

1:23 AM

Redemption in the Rain Forest
How does a nation overcome the gut-wrenching stigma of a gencide, now two decades past and proclaim to the world that it is a safe nd surprising place to viit? For Rwanda one strategy is to highlight a tract of unspoiled mountain rain forest rife with chimpanzees and a dozen other primates plus hundreds of species of birds namely, Nyungwe national Park in the southwestern cotner of the country. Nyungwe, which became a national park in 2005, exemplifies the farsightedness of a government that is channeling aid money toward preserving the best of Rwanda's natural beauty, while bringing in tourist dollars that benefit surrounding communities. An example is the USAID-funded Nyungwe Nziza (Beautiful Nyungwe) project, which recently a canopy walkway above a forested canyon a thrilling perspective on the park and its residents. Chimps are the star attraction in Nyungwe though they're not as readily watchable as the famed in the mist mountain gorillas farther north in Virunga National Park. Far easier to view are colobus monkeys. The world's lagest community of them lives in Nyugwe. The park hasn't yet gained renown among birders, but it will. Almost 300 species abide here, including showboats like the oversize, clown headed Ruwenzori turaco. "Nyungwe stands out among Africa's intact montane rain forests for its size and diversity" says conservationist Bill Weber who with his wife, Amy, pioneered the gorilla tourism project in Virunga. It's a place where people can spend several days and really get to know a rain forest, having different experiences each day. Visitors can hike trails to peaks and waterfalls and meet locals in Banda Village near the park entrance. Should one ask residents whether they are Tutsi or Hutu the answer will almost certainly be We are Rwandan. Robert Earle Howells

When To Go: The drier months (July-October) are best from gorilla trekking, hiking and tea plantation tours. For birding visit December-March.

How to Get Around:International flights arrive at Kigali International Airport, about 140 miles northeast of Nyungwe National Park. Rental cars are available but not recommended. The most convenient option is to book a custom or small group tour (including airport transfers, lodging, meals, activities and park entrance fees) with a responsible tourism operator, such as Rwanda Eco-Tours found and operated by native Rwandans.

Where To Stay: Serene and luxurious Nyungwe Forest Lodge is the ideal home base for exploring the park. It's surrounded on three sides by tea plantation and on the fourth by rain forest. Opened in 2011 12 room Nyungwe Top View Hill Hotel lives up to its name. Step out onto your private balcony or sit on the restaurant's outdoor terrace for mist-shrounded viewsof the national park and Lake Kivu.

Fun Fact: Nyungwe National Park's black and white colobus monkeys live high in the trees, rarely touching the ground. Their name is derived from the Greek word for mutilated since the monkeys typically have no thumbs. This adaptation makes it easy to scramble across branches on all fours.

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